The Adele Apron dress was love at first sight. You know when you see a pattern and want to make it immediately, well I fell hard for the Adele Apron Dress. As soon as Alice and Co Patterns posted that they needed pattern testers I …
As you’ve probably seen from my more recent blog posts, I am trying to concentrate more on being sustainable with my sewing. Sewing in general is much more sustainable than purchasing new for many reasons: • You know the supply chain • You know know …
The Wilder Gown by Friday Pattern Company was the dress of 2019, so I’m quite late to the party. It’s been on my radar for a while but just haven’t had the right fabric…until now! I was recently contacted by Fabric Godmother, one of my favourite fabric sellers, and coincidentally also in Brighton. They were launching their second collection of printed fabrics, and Josie offered to send me some to test out. I could make a beautiful garment of my choice and send her promotional photos.
There were a few different prints to choose from, you can see them all on The Fabric Godmother website. They are all viscose, which is a dream to work with. You can read here about a self-drafted button up dress I made with viscose. The prints are designed in collaboration with the Print Pattern Archive, so they are reimagining’s of vintage prints.
In the end I couldn’t make up my mind, so picked a top three and let Josie choose. I ended up with this stunning Luna Trees print, which I think was my favourite anyway. This is a viscose lawn which is fine with a tight weave and its super soft and luxurious.
Wilder Gown Process
As I was being sent fabric with such a gorgeous print and wanted to choose a pattern that would really showcase it. To do this, I wanted something big without too many panels or pattern pieces that would mean the print ended up getting cut up. I decided on the Wilder Gown.
When researching patterns, I like to turn to Instagram and search the hashtags to see all the different versions people have made. It is often more inspiring than the picture or line drawing on the pattern. The #wildergown selection is vast, it’s amazing to see what everyone has made.
As this is generally quite an oversized dress, I decided to just start with a size XS as I didn’t want to be too swamped. To check the fit I decided it was best to make a toile, but just of the bodice, as the skirt didn’t need fitting. The XS was perfect, as the neck is drawstring it aids the fitting of the whole garment, by pulling in the shoulders.
It’s a lovely simple pattern, once I read the instructions! But due to the drawstring neckline and raglan sleeve construction it appears more complicated than it is. When just viewing the pattern pieces I couldn’t understand how it all went together at all.
Luckily its quite simple, sewing the open front neck slit, front sleeves, back bodice and then the side seams. Once the bodice is constructed, the neck is turned and a section to create a ruffle and a channel for the tie is stitched. I used the elastic threading tools I recently bought to thread the tie and it made it so much easier to do!
Once the bodice was fully constructed the skirt panels are gathered and attached. Using the widest stitch on my machine I sewed one stitch line inside the seam allowance and one outside, then gently pulled to gather. By measuring and pinning the skirt tube to my table I was able to even out the gathers to the perfect fit and carefully ease as I sewed it on. Repeat for the second tier, hem and we’re done! For the hem I ended up taking it up a bit more than the pattern suggests. This suited me better.
Not exactly adjustments, but changes I made to the pattern cutting out when making. Firstly, the Wilder Gown calls for a two piece tie to thread through the neck. I ignored the pattern pieces and just cut a strip the width of the fabric so I didn’t have to attach two pieces.
Similar for the tiers, the top tier called for two panels and the bottom tier called for three. Instead of using the pattern pieces I just measured them and instead of cutting two, I just used the width of the fabric, 142cm, and used one large panel for the top tier. For the lower tier I added another panel of 76cm to the width.
By doing this and not using the pattern pieces, I reduced the volume slightly and also saved fabric, I hate wasting such beautiful fabric. This meant I managed to get the dress out of 2 -2.5 meters instead of 3.
Would I make another Wilder Gown?
When I was making it, I started to doubt myself, worrying a maxi wouldn’t suit me. But as soon as I finished it and put it on, I loved it. Turns out a giant tent dress is what I’d been missing all this time! So, I will definitely be making again. I might even try a shorter version.
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This month I have mostly been sewing, The Basic Instinct Tee. During lockdown I have started to realise that I need more relaxed comfy clothes. I realised that I always made more complicated clothing and hadn’t really tried any basics. I decided a good starting …
If like me you are struggling at how you can continue to support the BIPOC community on an everyday basis,. Hopefully this blog post is for you. I have compiled a list of Black owned sewing businesses, so I can make more conscience decisions to …
Where can I find sustainable underwear that will last and doesn’t cost the earth? Whether you are a long-time slow fashion enthusiast or a complete sustainability newbie, you have probably asked yourself this question. Finding good-quality ethical underwear can be a challenge and with this article, I hope to simplify it for you. These are my top 5 sustainable underwear brands, which I’m sure you will love as much as I do.
Organic Basics is one of the better-established brand names in the slow fashion community, for a good reason! To lower their impact on the environment, they choose more sustainable fabrics (such as organic cotton, tencel lyocell and recycled materials). They make their clothing in factories working on lowering their environmental impact and finally, design clothes that will last. If you are looking for super comfortable, timeless and simple sustainable underwear that you can wear under anything, Organic Basics are the way to go! I also wrote a full article about Organic Basics – Sustainable Fashion, so make sure to check it out.
For an exclusive 10% discount use my code RUBYROSEOB3
If basics are not for you and you would rather wear sexier, lacy underwear, look no further than Brighton Lace. They offer a range of beautiful lace and cashmere pieces, as well as some cotton essentials with lace details. Who said that sustainable underwear could not be fun? I certainly did not! What’s more, all their garments are crafted following the principles of slow fashion by a small team of seamstresses in Brighton, which not only shows the high ethical standard of the company but also lowers their carbon footprint.
That time of the month? Ditch unsustainable tampons and pads, WUKA period pants are here to stay. They fully substitute any other period products, just throw them in the wash when you are done and you’re good to go. WUKA is on a mission to lower the environmental impact of periods and reduce the mountains of single-use sanitary product waste. They also empower and represent women of all shapes, sizes and skin colors and make periods a little bit easier to deal with.
For an exclusive 10% discount use my code WUKA-RUBY10
Stripe & Stare
If a pop of fun and color is what your sustainable underwear drawer needs, you will find what you are looking for at Stripe & Stare. Their knickers are made of a biodegradable, water-saving, man-made material produced from wood pulp from sustainable tree farms. They are cute, breathable and bring comfort to the next level. Stripe & Stare make their sustainable underwear in a closely monitored factory in China – you can have a look inside on their website!
For an exclusive 10% discount use my code RUBY10
If you’re looking for something a bit more fun and patterned, check out ColieCo Lingerie. Using reclaimed and deadstock fabric as well as sustainable sourced materials ColieCo create beautiful pieces. All crafted to order in a small studio in Portual whats not to love? You can also read my full review ColieCo Lingerie – Ethical Fashion
Have you heard of these amazing slow fashion companies before? Have you tried their sustainable underwear? If you have, leave a comment below, to share your experience with me and others!
For further reading check out Jess Rigg’s review of sustainable underwear brands.
Fashion Revolution week is a very important date in the calendar for sustainable fashion. Before I started to concentrate on a more sustainable ethical lifestyle, I didn’t give much thought to where my clothing came from. Clothes just came from Topshop and H & M and that was fine. It was only when I decided to dig deeper that I discovered Fashion Revolution. Its one of the main reasons I started to make my own clothing.
What is Fashion Revolution?
Fashion Revolution is a group of people from all around the world striving to change the way clothing is produced, imported, marketed and sold. They believe that the industry needs to care more about the workers involved and the whole supply chain. It is a movement that runs all year but this week we can help celebrate, support and grow the movement. They have a charity The Fashion Revolution Foundation that helps educate people on their cause.
How did it start?
Fashion Revolution week started on the anniversary of the Rana Plaza factory collapse on 24th April 2013. The Rana Plaza building in Bangladesh collapsed and killed 1138 people and injured many, many more. This highlighted the terrible and totally preventable working conditions that garments workers, many of them young women are forced to work under. The problems with the buildings structure was well know and reported. But the demand from global brands to produce garments was too big and the conditions remained.
Many of the brands involved are part of the UK and US high street, a few are listed below. It has now been 7 years since this disaster, and which, if any, of these companies have made significant changes?
Many of these companies have yet to contribute you substantially to any compensation fund. Luckily other non-involved brands have stepped up to help.
Why do we need a Fashion Revolution?
We need to be thinking more about who made our clothes, where did they make them, how much did they get paid and what their lives are like. A lot goes into the garment making process and the journey they go through before they reach you. Cotton pickers, fabric producers and weavers, dyers, sewers, packers, testers and more. If brands aren’t more transparent with every aspect of the supply chain, how will we know what’s going on. I wrote a post recently about the Organic Basics 2019 impact report. They are particularly transparent with where the garments are made and what the workers are paid. This should be the benchmark for all brands to aim for.
What can you do?
Luckily for you there is plenty of ways to support the Fashion Rev movement in your everyday life, not just during Fashion Revolution Week. You can show support with your choices and your purchases, only buying from trasparent brands. If this doesnt fit into your budget buying second hand is a brilliant way to give life into clothing.
Your voice is very important. You can use your voice to reach out to brands and tell them that they must change. Fahion Revolution are asking you to email, tweet and take to Instagram to ask brands #whomademyclothes Head over to the Fashion Rev website to join the revolution, they have so many resources available to help you.
Feel free to Pin or share these quote posters I have made.
Let me know what you’ll be doing here in the comments or subscribe on the right to stay up to date
Creating a zero waste bathroom is a new mission in my life. While on my sustainability journey I have mostly been concentrating on my clothing and fashion in general. But sustainability goes so much further than that! I realised it needed to apply to my …